As dipping Orcs in off the shelf pre-stained wood varnish worked so well I thought I’d try some different coloured dip. Unfortunately Wattyl don’t make a green all-in-one varnish product so following Dustan’s advice again, I mixed my own. I picked up some Tamiya X-25 ‘Clear Green’ enamel paint from a local hobby store, a pot of clear satin floor varnish from the hardware store and combined them with a little ‘ebony’ oil based stain in an old, clean mint-jelly jar (which seemed appropriate). The dip was made by pouring two thirds of the Tamiya X-25 in and then slowly adding the satin floor varnish until I had a tone I was happy with, then I darkened the dip down by slowly adding small amounts of the ebony wood stain. Essentially I was trying to match the depth of colour of the wood stain product I used on the Orcs.
I dusted off some of the fifty assembled but unpainted Zombies I made for my Vampire Counts force, base coated them and dipped them into the new, minty green dip. Here’s the first four, matt varnished and ready to shamble. I’m not entirely satisfied with the results though, they’re passable for a gaming paint job but I think they’re not as successful as the dipped Orcs.
The green dip works well over the Games Workshop Camo Green that was used as the basic flesh tone, but don’t think it works that well over the brown tones on the figures. This is unfortunate because it’s earthy tones I typically paint with, which is obviously if you look at the Orcs I’ve been dipping, or any of my Pulp figures from the past. Ah well, perhaps it’s time to expand my repertoire and the green dip certainly works over whites like Skull White primer, off-whites like Bleached Bone, Rotting Flesh and yellows and yellow-browns like Khommando Khaki and Bubonic Brown. I’m also very happy with the way it’s worked on the Boltgun Metal chest plate and suspect it’ll go quite nicely over Shining Gold as well.
So I think I’ll forge ahead regardless of my reservations. I’ve tidied up half of my 50 Zombies ready for base coating and dipping so I might as well keep painting. It’s been suggested that I try varying the skin tone a little and I do wonder how the green dip would go over light blue or even purple tinged flesh. I suspect you could probably end up with some quite delightfully fetid looking Zombies… (cue rolling thunder, lightning flash).
Nice one, Stu,
I have to say, your zombies don’t look bloody bad at all – especially considering the stain used. For me, dipping is the only way to fly now and I really can’t be bothered with all the shading and highlighting of the past. Everyone to their own, of course, but this the way ahead.
All the best,
Monty
I can imagine what you meant with some tones which do not come out good with a green dip, but on the picture the zombies look excellent!
Nice work again – I have been following this thread and its given me the confidence to try dipping some ogres as painting is not my strong point ..
keep up the good work ….
Thanks gentlemen! I’m continuing to base coat more Zombies to dip. I’m trying some light blue and purple skin tones out of curiousity. If they don’t work out I can always strip’em.
Dipping is definitely worth it for rank and file, I’m certainly a convert.
“…but I think they’re not as successful as the dipped Orcs.”
I actually think I like these _more_ than the orcs.
Great job in any event. I really enjoy your writing.
The zombies almost look like they have a glow to them. I wonder how the green dip would translate to some of GW’s LotR Army of the Dead?
Hey guys!
Wow, I must say I am just amazed by the dipping, and SO glad I stumbled upon this website!
I have read up on all your dipping tries and I must say I really like the way your orcs came out, much better then most people paint anyway!
I myself have always been a great fan of the painting side of the hobby when I was younger, but now that I am older and find myself with less time and a buttload of other interests I just can’t be bothered to sit down and paint my stuff night after night (btw: Warhammer for me is a hobby of come and go) but seeing what you are doing here surely motivates me to get back in the game with a new army: something I always wanted to start but could never find the courage to start because of the painting :D
I’m very curious how the Plague Marine and Eldar experiments work out guys, and I’ll be checking back here often enough from now on!
Two more things though: maybe you guys could give some tips on what to look for and what to avoid when getting those varnish products? Because knowing myself and my history of experimenting with these things I’ll end up spending more money then simply buying ‘the official stuff’ :s
Also, after applying a matt varnish, does all of the gloss effect go away? Because I really dislike a glossy end result ;)
Ok, thats all, hope I’m not intruding here or bombarding you with too much questions, Im just VERY thrilled about all this.
Thanks a bunch and good luck with the experiments, from Holland! I’ll be checking back here frequently…
Mike.
Hi Mike, no worries about the questions – questions are good! We’re based in New Zealand so unfortunately I can’t give you specific product details (more than I have in the posts) – but the key to dipping in my opinion is to first find an excellent, very matt spray varnish for the final coat.
That’s because once you’ve got a matt varnish handy it doesn’t really matter what kind of floor varnish you use. Naturally pick a ’satin’ varnish but be aware that yes after dipping and drying figures will still be VERY SHINY – hence the need for a good matt varnish. The figures in my experience are so shiny you’ll often think ‘oh crap, what have I done, these look awful’. That’s when you bust out the matt varnish and dust them lightly with a coat. Then suddenly they’ll transform into nicely dipped figures.
I think the reason dip works reasonably well is because it actually ends up putting a relatively thick coat of tinted varnish over the figure, which gives it a moderate amount of depth. Once you kill the shine with matt varnish that depth of tinting comes out.
The other recommendation I have is TEST FIGURES. Once you have some likely products, take your time and be prepared to sacrifice a few figures to TEST dipping and varnishing. I have a Tyranid Spore Mine that’s now covered in at least three coats of dry dip, because it was progressively dipped in different mixes for testing. I have a Zombie that’s a couple of shades of green for the same reason.
Regarding posts I try to post once a week and I intend to try out my green dip on some Nurgle Space Marines sometime in June probably – once I’ve finished a unit of Zombies.
Oh and I should add, I’m the father of two boys: 2 and 5 years old, so I know what you mean about having no time. Now I’m confident with dipping I can finish about five figures every couple of nights to a gaming standard. At that rate it’s actually practical to paint a WHFB army in your evenings.
Hi Mike, Stu is quite right about the Matt varnish, I use the same brand (on his advise) and it makes a world of difference.
For the dip mix there is only one rule, the solvents must be the same. Tamia clear enamels can be mixed freely with any varnish to tint it though in most cases it will be more effective to start pre tinted base.
As for brands, I read good things Miniwax polyshades which is the the same sort of product as the wattyl product we are using. If you go into any hardware store and ask for one step Stain & Polyurethane you cant go to far wrong. I would shy away from waterbased products but only because I havent tried them, though I bet someone on the internet has.
Hey guys,
how is everything over in NZ? Cool to know where you guys are from, I’ve always wanted to visit NZ, but I’ve been putting it off for ever.
Anyway, thanks for the replies. I actually read them as they were posted, but I just realised I haven’t written back since.
In the meantime I have found a hobby store in my town actually that happens sells The Army Painter dip so I’m really thinking of going for that as they are selling it for 25 euro’s a can – and I don’t I can experiment with different varnishes for less.
Another update is that I have decided to indeed start on a new army for Warhammer 40k, and build a matching table as up untill now I’ve had to make do with a 4′x 6′ table of wooden planks placed on my dinner table and I suddenly have a good idea for the thing. I’ll keep you guys posted.
In the meantime how are things here?
Greetings from Holland,
Mike.